Hey Everyone!

I’m sure we all know how to conceal, but what about colour correcting? No, I’m no talking about slapping on another foundation or concealer to “colour correct” our skin, but using actual cream colours to do the job. Using green and purple concealers might only make sense if you’re helping do Barney the Dinosaur’s make-up, but it can really actually help you achieve an even flawless base under your make-up. This is colour correcting.

Today I’m using my favourite which is the Make Up For Ever Camo Cream Palette. I always use this palette when I need to colour correct my clients or models and I love the texture. It is a dream. There are two main things you need to know about colour correcting – being what colour corrects what, and how to correctly apply the cream (because it’s not how you usually do it).

Dark oranges - are great for dark skin tones because it is able to warm up the skin so that foundation doesn’t look pale and ashy. Often, more african skin tones can have gray or ashy “pigmentation spots” and more commonly, the middle of the face doesn’t match the tone of the border of the face. This dark orange helps to correct the mismatched spots. For midnight dark skin, you can even use your red lipstick to do the job as I’ve done before!

Purple/Lilac – used to correct sallowness of the skin or yellowness and significantly brighten your complexion. Did you know that this colour theory is all according to the colour wheel. Therefore, since purple is used to correct yellow, yellow corrects purple or blue/black spots. For example, if you have really dark under eye circles, you can use a pale yellow colour corrector to correct your under-eye first before applying your concealer. You’ll find that it goes away even better.

Green – the most common colour corrector. It’s used to correct redness, eczema, pink blemishes and zits. Applying the green colour correct before, will help you hide the redness that usually shows up through your concealer. It’s great to hide those hard to hide red areas too.

The rest of the palette features concealers that you can mix together to hide your flaws, they aren’t really colour correctors. I would say this palette is missing a pale yellow because that’s pretty much all that’s left! As you would know, a pale yellow helps to correct the dark under eye circles and helps to neutralize it.

In applying your colour corrector, the keyword again is neutralize. You’re supposed to neutralize the colour, not conceal it. Therefore, as you can see in the picture, the first swatch is wrong. Applying a green layer is not going to help you and will make you look like shrek. Instead, lightly pat the corrector onto the affected area. See how light that is? That’s exactly the amount (or less) that you need to neutralize whatever you’re trying to hide!

Hope this helps and have a wonderful weekend!

Roseanne

Hey Everyone,

I can’t believe it’s over in two weeks. I still remember packing my bags (albeit very last minute), hopping on a plane and getting on the tube to my very first day of school. And now, it’s already week 7! Finally attending make-up school was a big dream of mine. Even though to be honest most of my friends and family questioned what more I could learn there, I learned an immense amount. It wasn’t so much about theory, but the experience of applying make-up on people day in day out and being professional about it is what helped! In fact, applying make-up on someone else is totally different than applying make-up on yourself, plus you learn the real professional way of doing things and you get told off by someone who’s been doing it for 20 years. Here are my top lessons, tips and tricks (whatever you want to call them) from school that I never knew how to do before. Plus, I’ve sprinkled images of some of my work throughout the post as well!

1. Curling Someone Else’s Lashes

Whenever I had to curl somebody’s lashes before, I always willingly handed them the eyelash curler. Now, with more practice of course, I’m able to do it myself. If you want to do it on someone else, simply tell them to “half-open” their eyes. Then, tuck the eye-lash curler underneath and semi close down and ask “Does it feel okay?”. With a “yes”, then you can proceed to clamp down on the lashes. Wait a 10 – 30 seconds and release for curled lashes. Also, remember that when applying mascara, you always need to apply your mascara on a disposable mascara wand and not apply straight from the tube! Mascara is notorious for little germs.

( Black & White x Tint – Model: Amelia | Photographer: Sandro Hyams| Make-Up: Roseanne Tang)

2. Lipliner is now a must-have

I never understood lip liner before coming here. If I outline the lips, it looks too theatrical. If I fill it in with lip liner, what’s the point, I’m applying lipstick anyway. I just couldn’t be bothered. But seriously with every look I’ve done over the past months, I’ve had to use a lipliner. It’s a must-have to make those really sharp and intense lip looks and it has been difficult but after doing it so many times, I finally got the hang of it. The trick to lip liner isn’t to press hard and draw it out like an eyeliner, but to very lightly trace the line of your lips – the lightest, slightest line will appear and that’s the line you want because you don’t want to go to heavy. You can also ask your model to stretch the bottom lip by half smiling so it’s easier for you to draw. Then, fill in the lips completely by using the side of the pencil to shade in the lips. We almost never leave the lip not filled up after applying liner.

( Classic Glamour  - Model: Emma | Photographer: Shooting Beauty| Make-Up: Roseanne Tang)

3. Moisturise Please

I remember applying foundation beforehand on dry skin. It would cake up and look like a complete mess. Little did I know how important skin prep is before make-up application and we’re not just talking primers. My cleanser of choice is a cream cleanser. I cleanse even if there’s no make-up with a special massage technique and grabbing moistened cotton disks to wipe away the cleanser after. I then tone and remember to pat away the toner after I sweep the face with a folded up tissue so the skin doesn’t feel tight. Then of course moisturiser. I have two moisturisers in my kit, a lotion for people who don’t need moisturiser and a more heavy duty one – both E45. Even if they don’t need it, I will still moisturise before the make-up so that it’s a smoother application. For nasty dry spots, you need the heavy duty one. I say moisturise until you feel the skin is soft and supple to the touch. If that’s good, then you’re ready for make-up. I’ve been wanting to get the Rosebud Salve as well. Apply it to the flaky bits, do the eyes first, and the flaky bits will drop off naturally. Then apply the foundation.

( Beauty Shot – Model: Stephanie | Photographer: Shooting Beauty| Make-Up: Roseanne Tang)

I think everyone can do make-up self taught for sure. I know I did for three years, but I guess you’ll never really learn about the small things until you’ve done a few months at a school. What’s hygienic, what’s not, how to prepare your kit and table, how to direct your model so that applying make-up is easier and safer for both of you.

But, I guess the most major lesson I’ve learnt is that man, I really love putting make-up on people. After doing a shoot a few weeks ago for six hours straight on like 20 models, I realised I didn’t feel tired and I think I very well enjoyed myself too much. I only hope I can get a move on a decent make-up artist career back in Singapore. You want your make-up done, holla!

We’re now learning to do HAIR – something that I have absolutely no experience in but I’m getting the hang of it already. I can’t wait to do all the updos, curls and plaits!

xx Roseanne

Hey Everyone,

Everyone knows that one of the costs to being is make-up artist is how ridiculously expensive make-up can be. I find myself buying make-up shades that aren’t for myself, cool blushes and lipsticks and crazy colours – plus the odd accessory like sponges, disposable mascara wands, Q-Tips and skincare for toning, cleansing and extra moisturising. In fact, building your make-up kit can be tough. But, here are a few tips from make-up school that may make it easier on your wallet!

1. Mix and Match

They say that if a foundation is in the same line and is composed of the same texture, you can mix shades to get your accurate one. That means probably buying just a light, medium and dark foundation is enough and for all the shades in between, you can mix them together to get the right one. I find this great for liquid foundations so you’re carrying three in your kit instead of ten. Get multi-taskers as well like foundation sticks that can double up as concealers as well depending on how you apply it.

2. Power in Neutrals

I was flipping through Vogue the other day and I noticed that probably 90% of the looks are all neutral colors. Talking to the make-up artists who have been doing makeup for 20 years at school – they tell me that they barely get to use color if at all despite their avid wish to do so. Bridal looks also make up the bread and butter of a make-up artists salary but most bridal looks are now classic, timeless and of course neutral. Unless you’re talking about a wonderful Indian or Arab wedding that may call for otherwise. That means, get the colors you want, but only what is necessary and build your neutral shades.

3. The “As you go” method

It’s hard sitting in class every day and the make-up artist telling you what their must-have foundation is or must-have make-up brush is without wanting to get it! It’s as if you have to fork out a load of mooh-lah in an instant to get your kit all up and running. But, I’ve realised that I’m going to get what is necessary first and then build as I go. So, if I know I have a model tomorrow who wants ridiculous glitter and pigments, I’ll get that, but not now.

4. Don’t forget the High Street when you start

A word for drugstore products here in the UK is the term “High Street” – you’re looking at brands like Sleek, Barry M, Max Factor, L’Oreal or Maybelline. These cosmetics actually own some of the major big ones. In fact, the high street brand Bourjois is said to OWN Chanel cosmetics. I’ve tried and reviewed hundreds of products – from high end like Chanel, YSL, NARS, MAC etc, you name it and lots of drugstore products and each brand is like a music album – you really like some songs and the others not so much. Especially when you first start out, using eye-shadows from Sleek (which is AMAZING) instead of NARS or Chanel is alright. When you start building an income, you can then fork out more for the stuff you want! Right now, I’m thinking of getting more high-end foundations, concealers, primers and powders but not minding great quality colors for eye-shadows, liners, and primers.

What’s on my wish list? I need a range of foundations suitable for all skin types that I can mix and match and produce shades with. Including powders and concealers. I’ve been using the MAC studio fix fluid at school and I love how flawless it looks in photographs, but I don’t know how it will fare in hot and humid Singapore. So if you have any suggestions let me know!

Hope you found this useful! Have a great weekend!

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Love,

Roseanne

Hey Everyone!

As a beauty blogger or I guess any girl, it’s hard not to stick to things you already know – like your skin type, skin tone and the shades you think work best for you. Today, I’m breaking free of those chains (cliche, much?) and giving you some make-up artist approved tips to doing make-up for darker skin tones, including your own if you have those blessed full lips, cheekbones and ability to go crazy with color without looking too OTT.

1. Hello Color-Correcting

People with darker skin often have different skin-tones on different areas of the face. For example, the forehead and perimeter of the face my appear slightly darker than the rest of the face and pigmentation may likely occur around the mouth. Of course this does not apply to everyone, but make sure you notice these things before foundation so that you can achieve a more flawless finish. Furthermore, darker skin tones have a vulnerability to looking ashy and gray. Thus, it’s imperative that you warm the skin if the overcast has a bit of a cool undertone to avoid looking ashy. Dark Yellow and Orange color correctors and if very dark skin, red color correctors when blended very lightly onto the skin before foundation can warm the overall appearance and take the greyish tones away which may occur. Another tip is to use and mix various foundations together to achieve the right shade and then vary according to what area you do. Or for something just everyday, opt for a higher coverage if you do have pigmentation issues.

2. Don’t Contour, Highlight!

That’s right. You might think wow, I love the contoured cheekbones of a darker skin lady but that can be better achieved with a cream highlighter (like a good NARS multiple) and making prominent features already in the light such as the cheeks, the nose bridge to narrow the nose, the forehead, chin, cupids bow and cheek bones. Blend out evenly and make it as if the light did the job for you.

3. Powders Your Shade

They say that a translucent powder suits all skin-tones, but it really doesn’t. For powders, please use a powder that is the same shade as your skin-tone and foundation. Keep the natural glow going and don’t add too much powder to mattify the face completely, that would be a shame!

4. Skip the Nicki Minaj Lipsticks Please

If you want your make-up to look natural and enhance your beauty, don’t use pale lip colors. Actually, I’m against them totally, even if you have medium or fair skin. I always think nude lips make you look like a zombie bride. The most flattering lip colors for darker skin tones are wines, plums, bricks, dark red, brick red or if you’re feeling extra bold, a vivid fuchsia or pink. But nothing blue, cool or pale. If you tend to find that your lips are different tone – for example darker on your top lip than bottom, a good lip concealer or just the foundation that’s left on your foundation brush over the lips before your apply your lipstick should even things out.

5. Blush in Vivid Pinks, Wines, Deep Reds or Orange Reds

And what about those beautiful blushing cheeks? Stay with the peaches, oranges, reds, or wine colors too and stay away from the cool pinks. You do not want to look like a hoochiemama. Blush should always be build-able. Make sure you take a blush brush and lightly sweep the color on your cheeks from the middle of your cheek (aligned with the middle of your eye) towards the top of your ear. Then, sweep until you attain the desired pigment.

I hope you liked these tips! These are just guidelines though, have fun playing around with what works for you. I would say, just stay warm not cool! Amp up the eye-shadow if you want to!

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Love,
Roseanne

Hey Everyone,

We’ve all been there. We’ve just finished an amazing smokey eye but the eye-shadow has gotten all over our cheeks and underneath. If we touch to remove it, it smears making it even worse. Here’s an really simple solution to clearing up the mess in no time:

Really all you have to do is get a Q-tip or fold a cotton pad into a tip and apply some foundation on the back of your hand. Using your Q-tip, grab some of the foundation, smear it until just a bit is on the Q-tip and wipe and swipe away the eye-shadow. Not only does it remove the eye-shadow, it also doesn’t remove the foundation which is great! Make sure that you spread the foundation out on your hand first, you don’t want to add too much and if you do,  just pat it out with your finger. For huge fall out, grab a foundation brush that you used and painted downwards in quick short strokes!

Love,
Roseanne